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terqui
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6 posts [100%]
bel air MD
10-11-2014
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Hey, what do you run for brake pads on the track? Im looking to upgrade this season

vtecwreck
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23 posts [100%]
Central Jersey
8-11-2014
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Very nice build so far, I found lots of inspiration in this threadi! As I'm prepping my interior for paint I have a few questions maybe you can help with. What gun do you use to paint? I've looked into the harbor freight Hvlp guns but there's mixed reviews and I rather not risk it.
My DB8 Build
http://forums.nwp4life.com/zer...50746


A setback is just an opportunity for a comeback


Fruehauf1
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133 posts [100%]
PA
11-18-2008
 « Re: (vtecwreck)« » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by terqui »
Hey, what do you run for brake pads on the track? Im looking to upgrade this season

I ran the same Hawk HP+ pads for the last 2 years on some centric blank rotors. I haven't had any issues with the brakes but my rotors are definitely shot at this point. They are all grooved but the pads still actually have a lot of life left but I think I am going to go with a Type R setup up this year so I will need new pads anyway.

Quote, originally posted by vtecwreck »
Very nice build so far, I found lots of inspiration in this threadi! As I'm prepping my interior for paint I have a few questions maybe you can help with. What gun do you use to paint? I've looked into the harbor freight Hvlp guns but there's mixed reviews and I rather not risk it.

Thanks! I did use Harbor Freight guns for the interior and the engine bay. I don't really know much about painting besides what I have done in this thread but I did learn one thing. I used the regular sized gun for the interior and it was hard to reach some tighter areas so when I was getting ready to paint the bay I bought a mini gun from Harbor Freight that I thought would be good for the tight areas. It turned out that the mini gun shot way better than the big gun. I could get closer without it running which left the paint much glossier and less gritty. I ended up using the small gun for the whole engine bay. The only downside was having to fill up the little cup so often.

There are definitely imperfections in my interior and bay but for the most part they are only things I know about or you would have to be looking for to see. I would blame the user more than the guns for that though. Like I said earlier I have never painted before besides spray paint but my engine bay came out better than my interior even from just having the experience of doing the interior first.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auFfqnlSEgc

@fruehauf1


vtecwreck
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23 posts [100%]
Central Jersey
8-11-2014
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Thanks for the feedback man. Hopefully we'll run into each other at some events this season!
My DB8 Build
http://forums.nwp4life.com/zer...50746


A setback is just an opportunity for a comeback


blandsarcasm
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13 posts [100%]
east coast PA
11-26-2016
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im assuming +35 on the te's? they look perfect with red. i have the same specs on on the 57dr's i just picked up and the 195's that came on them are very close to cutting against the rear quarters. im positive with the suspension compressed even .5" it would cut. dc2 with unrolled rears on stock upper arms. if 205s dont fit what are you planning to do? i dont particularly want to roll the rears on my integra and risk pulling slightly and deforming the body lines but if i must to fit 225s back there i guess i will

terqui
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bel air MD
10-11-2014
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I had to roll the rears on my em1 to fit 15x7 +35 RE30's with 205/50s. Just spend the $100 or so to get them rolled and save yourself the headaches


Fruehauf1
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133 posts [100%]
PA
11-18-2008
 « Re: (vtecwreck)« » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by vtecwreck »
Thanks for the feedback man. Hopefully we'll run into each other at some events this season!

No problem!

Quote, originally posted by blandsarcasm »
im assuming +35 on the te's? they look perfect with red. i have the same specs on on the 57dr's i just picked up and the 195's that came on them are very close to cutting against the rear quarters. im positive with the suspension compressed even .5" it would cut. dc2 with unrolled rears on stock upper arms. if 205s dont fit what are you planning to do? i dont particularly want to roll the rears on my integra and risk pulling slightly and deforming the body lines but if i must to fit 225s back there i guess i will

Ya they are +35's.I actually got the 205's mounted and got them fit. I am going to try and update this thread with some of the things I have been working on so you will see what I did.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auFfqnlSEgc

@fruehauf1


Fruehauf1
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133 posts [100%]
PA
11-18-2008
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Shortly after I got the TE's I had my two 205 NT01's put on them so I could see how they fit and looked. I also put the stickers on which I think really go well with the red.

The front seems like there is plenty of clearance with the 205 so I think I am going to get 225's for the other 2 wheels and run them up front. When I first put them on the rear I couldn't lower the car all the way down because the tire was just barely going to hit the quarter panel lip. I could have added more camber but it was already more than I wanted to start with. My plan was to shave the lip but only up to the spot welds so the two panels are still bonded together perfectly but would still give me about 1/4 inch more clearance. I wanted to try this because I still really don't want to roll my quarters and I figure if I ever do want to roll them I still can in the future. I used a dremel to cut and sand the lip smooth. This is the only picture I have but you can see it gives me plenty of clearance and looks just like it did from the factory except not as wide.

I lowered the suspension down as low as it would go just to see what it would be like when the suspension compresses and it clears just fine.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auFfqnlSEgc

@fruehauf1


Fruehauf1
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133 posts [100%]
PA
11-18-2008
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As far as motor updates not too much has happened. I am still waiting to get the block back from the machine shop. He said he was pretty backed up and it may be a few weeks and I wasn't in any real rush so I said that was fine. I am hoping it is done this week so I can start assembling the bottom end.

I did get new Manley valves and got them lapped into the head.

Since almost everything in this motor will be new I decided to run new springs and retainers just to rule them out as a possible reason for the cam and rocker wear. I don't really think this was an issue because then it would have happened to all of them and not just cylinder 2 and 3 on the exhaust side. I decided to go with BC springs and their steel alloy retainers. I have read of a couple horror stories about titanium retainers wearing especially on some Honda Challenge B16's that are ran at high RPM's for a long time and usually rev a little higher than 1.8's so just to avoid another possible issue in the future I went with the steel retainer option.

Here is the head all ready to have the springs installed. I am going to do them this week so the head will be done and I just have to assemble the block once I get it back.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auFfqnlSEgc

@fruehauf1


Fruehauf1
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133 posts [100%]
PA
11-18-2008
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One of the newest projects I started working on came about because I needed to build a new workbench for the garage. We started organizing the garage and I had wanted to build a nice workbench for a while so my friend got his truck and we headed out to get some materials. While at Home Depot I decided to get and extra sheet of plywood so I could mock up a splitter if I ever felt like making one. With the block still at the machine shop and nothing really to work on boredom got the best of me so my friend Alex and I started working on the splitter.

After a couple hours of laying out the plywood, testing out different ideas for the air damn, and making some splitter brackets, this is what it looked like all mocked up.

I am not sure that this will be the final shape yet and may trim it up more before I make the final version. Right now the air damn isn't actually mounted and the brackets I made need to be stronger. I used some pretty thin aluminum after reading that the splitter should be able to break away in case you go off track so it doesn't mess up the frame rails. Unfortunately it seems a little too weak but once I actually get some nice 1/2 inch birch plywood and thicker aluminum I think it will work out fine. Right now it is regular 3/8 inch plywood and it has way too much flex.

Here are a couple of shots of how I made the brackets. Nothing revolutionary here. I just looked at what most people are doing and made something similar.

Also, here is the workbench that started this whole project. It came out great. It can hold 10 plastic bins and is plenty strong to be doing work on top of it. Having a big work area like this will come in handy when I start the transmission work soon.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auFfqnlSEgc

@fruehauf1


blandsarcasm
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Online

13 posts [100%]
east coast PA
11-26-2016
 « Re: (Fruehauf1)« » Reply  Edit


the cut on the quarter panel looks nice and clean. ive seen where others have cut that lip almost completely off taking the spot welds with it, but like you i feel that its important to keep those panels bonded together. id like to run 225s all around without being forced to go more than -2deg camber in the rear. im afraid im not going to have any choice but to roll them. curious to see how that splitter works out for you on the track. looks mean! workspace looks nice too. i could use a table like that myself
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