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hkz286
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31 posts [100%]
12-18-2016
 « Re: (artofmotiongarage)« » Reply  Edit


thanks for the kind works much appreciated

A bit out of the order in which I did things, but I thought I would post the next big instalment.

In terms of wheels, a lot of people go with an 18" rear and 17" front combination because the car comes with staggered diameter wheels as standard. As I want to fit bigger brakes up front I need an 18" wheel, and as I would never run a 19" wheel in the rear, I had to go with 18" all round.

As for the wheel, I have always wanted a particular set. Mostly due to the rarity and quality of construction.

they didn't start of this way however, when i got them, they were this colour:


all assembled:


and finally on the car


The wheels of course are Desmond Marquis Promada. A lot like the Regamaster they are famous for but ever so slightly different in how the centre cap is seated (regamasters are flush with no centre cap).

These wheels are sort of special. In the 90's they were produced by a company called Desmond using a particular piece of press tooling in Russia. They had to use the Russian equipment, as at the time, It was the only Forging Press capable of the pressure that was required. From what i can gather, It was used to create railway parts in a former life (details are sketchy so maybe wrong).

They really are a special wheel and as I've wanted a set for a long time, so I sold the Work CR Kai's and purchased these. Problem is that most sets were used for racing cars smaller japanese cars in the 90's (civics etc). This means that most sets are either 15" or 16".

18's are super rare, and if they do come up for sale, they are usually gtr fitment (i.e. non staggered and low offset). I managed to find a set of four in the correct rear fitment I needed (18x9.5 et45R), and managed to find a pair in Seattle that I needed for the front (18x8.5 et30). Now as you can guess, you cant really go super low offset on the NSX. In fact, most people said that my front fitment was far to aggressive and that It would never fit. However if I wanted an 18" in the front, this was the thinnest, weakest offset that was available, so i kind of had no choice

The keen eye'd amongst you will notice that the rear offset is designated et45R, the "R" specially means that you get extra space for large brakes (stands for Racing apparently :s).

A few more shots with my brothers Supra (single turbo, 570bhp)



jap-society
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belgium
10-17-2009
 « Re: (hkz286)« » Reply  Edit


Damn man, never heard of anyone getting custom lugs made from scratch !!

And I absolutly love the NSX on the Marquis Promada

You're brothers Supra looks great too on those TE's


K-EG project car and daily EG4

Downstar | Checkerd Sports | Hybrid Racing | J's Racing | Spoon Sports | Mugen | C-west | Chargespeed | ...

IG; japsociety


hkz286
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31 posts [100%]
12-18-2016
 « Re: (jap-society)« » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by jap-society »
Damn man, never heard of anyone getting custom lugs made from scratch !!

And I absolutly love the NSX on the Marquis Promada

You're brothers Supra looks great too on those TE's

thanks chap

yeah it was a first for me too still all's well that ends well

yeah its super clean. Hes had it for quite some time now so its a bit further along than my car



artofmotiongarage
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12-10-2010
 « Re: (hkz286)« » Reply  Edit


PERFECT choice of wheels my man! Regamaster's in any form are probably my favorite wheel. They were such a technological advance for most wheels that you put on your Honda in the 90's! The design is not only iconic, but timeless and classic in design and performance!
Build: 2001 Acura Integra LS Turbo
Instagram: artofmotiongarage
Closure to my old EK: The Last Hoorah


hkz286
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12-18-2016
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Quote, originally posted by artofmotiongarage »
PERFECT choice of wheels my man! Regamaster's in any form are probably my favorite wheel. They were such a technological advance for most wheels that you put on your Honda in the 90's! The design is not only iconic, but timeless and classic in design and performance!

yeah I've wanted a set for a while. White wheels are a pain to keep clean, coupled that with very soft black pain and I'm constantly cleaning the thing. Not a practical colour combination by any means


hkz286
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12-18-2016
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carrying on with the gauges theme I thought I would share the restoration of my defi gauges.

Now for those that don't know, defi are a subsidiary company for Nippon Seiki, a Japanese company that makes gauges and clusters for lots of large OEM cars and motorbikes, they even made the gauge cluster in the NSX (as in the standard dash clocks). The sensors and gauges are the best quality that I have found in any aftermarket gauge. I've gone through lots and always come back to Defi. Plus its like an OEM+ addition as they are the same brand as stock

Anyways, I've had these gauges for about 10 years now through various cars (I bet those who bought autogauge or stri gauges wont be saying similar ) and anyone who knows these gauges understands that the only failure mode (that is common across the board) is the electrical plug/sockets. The thing is, the plug is fairly difficult to "unplug" from the gauge or link meter. This means they end up getting yanked on with force and then the wires separate from the plug terminals. Boo.

the terminals and plug:

Now there are a few options with this. You can buy new wires from Defi, however outside of japan they are quite expensive (due to shipping, tax, import fees etc.)

If your semi electrically savvy, you can buy new plugs and terminals and repair them. Problem is that you cannot buy the electrical plugs from the standard retailers (rsonline, mouser, digikey etc). I literally spent a year on and off trying to find who makes them and where I can buy them (in all honesty it got the stage where I just enjoyed the treasure hunt and was well beyond practical reasons). Well eventually I found them, found a supplier, and then found the minimum order quantity (10,000). So....balls to that then.

So the next option, which is what I did, is to make entirely new looms out of overspec'd components, costing many times what the replacement parts cost and completely defeating the object of the exercise in the first place.

so first up, box full of bits:

this included,

Teflon coated, mil spec cable
all new water proof connectors for the sensors (retainers, terminals, seals, housings)
all new pugs and sockets for gauges (terminals, seals etc)
techflex expanding cable cover
Raychem glue lined heat shrink

first up was the sensors, new plugs:


seals for terminals:


mate one with t'other:


new retaining plate (yellow bit):

rinse, repeat and boom, good as new:

:

Next is the gauges themselves,


This is the awkward plug on the gauges, they are a real pain:


Whip that out:


New ones in:


Before and After:


New link cables and power cables:


Laying out the new loom with the Teflon coated, silver plated cable:

Plugs etc on:


Running the newly constructed loom in the factory cable clips:


and all in and working (click the below picture):


now, like I said. This whole process was an exercise in pointlessness. It cost a huge amount and functions no better than OEM. I just like to build things, and having never built a wiring loom from these sorts of materials before, I thought the gauges would be a cool project. I've ended up with the most over spec'd wiring loom ever but who can put a price on fun


hkz286
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12-18-2016
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at little project that made a world of difference was sorting out the key that came with the car


now people refer to this as the "titanium" key, when it just isn't. I have more titanium in the dirt under my fingernails than this key has. It is in fact made out of an alloy called "monel" which is a Nickel-Copper alloy. Its a cool material none the less (I know I'm playing a little fast and loose with the word "cool" but bear with me). In the 60's it was used in the skins of experimental rockets due to the stability at high temperatures and is hugely corrosion resistant.

So anyways, after 25 years it was a bit manky. Considering its about $150 to replace, I decided to refresh this one.

Some polishing, paint and cleaning later and we have this:

Problem was now I'm too scared to scratch it :S so I bought a few crappy plastics ones to use on a day to day basis.

I needed to anyways as the car originally came with 3 keys, the monel one (pretty) a replica of the metal one in black plastic, and the one pictured above (the valet key). I have a propensity to lose things, so I use the plastics ones as they are cheaper to replace


a couple of other issues was some of the plastic clips around the engine bay were broken and the props weren't secure. So a few quid later and we have some new ones:

Also the engine hatch release would often not work on really hot days (the plastic would warp and not turn the square shaft to release the hatch) so an extortionate amount of money later and we have a new one from Honda.


its the little things that I find make such a difference with the ownership. Not having to mess around trying to get your hatch open or not having the bonnet props flailing about is such a small thing that makes such a big difference in general feelings towards using the car.


artofmotiongarage
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12-10-2010
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The color combo is hard to beat and is WELL worth the work to keep clean!!

Your willingness to restore parts most people would replace is my favorite part of your thread so far! I love how much you know about the material of things! I am learning a lot about metallurgy in here!


Build: 2001 Acura Integra LS Turbo
Instagram: artofmotiongarage
Closure to my old EK: The Last Hoorah


hkz286
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12-18-2016
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Quote, originally posted by artofmotiongarage »
The color combo is hard to beat and is WELL worth the work to keep clean!!

Your willingness to restore parts most people would replace is my favorite part of your thread so far! I love how much you know about the material of things! I am learning a lot about metallurgy in here!

lol well don't take everything i say as gospel i full of crap for the most part

not strictly to do with the NSX but thought it was cool none the less. I've been working on a little birthday present / house warming gift for one of my friends.

I took an old set of Volk racing GRC wheels that I drunkenly bought off eBay and paid waaaaay to much for. That coupled with the fact one of the barrels was bent meant that the resale value, even after a rebuild, would be little and certainly wouldn't cover my costs in buying them.

So i decided to do something different with them. I had an old set of TEIN coilovers laying about that I couldn't verify the condition, age, or even type, so again, decided to contribute them to the cause.

so after many, many hours, later we get this:


Titanium nuts holding the glass in place,


MIL-Spec 12 point, Inconel bolts holding the very large spanner down. You can see the custom piece of smoked Lexan sheet i cut to use as a backing for the barrel.


Overall I think It came out quite well.

The glass is a cnc custom cut piece that I commissioned.

The wheel is a Volk Racing GTC split rim in 4x114.3 (I even managed to save the build sticker )

The bolts have been stripped, then zinc coated (you know for all the corrosion protection required ).

New tyre valves, seals and valve caps were installed.

The barrel has been blasted and powder coated black, with the "VOLK RACING" decal around the circumference.

The TEIN coilover has been stripped, and all the oil drained out, reassembled and painted, then the large "TEIN" decal applied. I then machined the wheel centre to bolt up to the TEIN top mount. The base of the coilover was then welded to the spanner. The spanner was then machined and bolted to the base using Inconel 12 point bolts.

The springs have been powdercoated black aswell.

The lips have been polished and new "VOLK RACING" stickers applied.

The centres were stripped and painted white. The centre caps were then polished and reapplied.

The bolts on the base are stainless cap screws with stainless serrated nuts.

the studs holding the glass up is all stainless threaded rod which I cut to length.

the glass was then levelled using a spirit level


hkz286
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12-18-2016
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Last year sometime, someone decided to park their car in the side of my brothers supra.

This turned out to be very bad for most of the supra suspension including the BC Racing coilover. Surprisingly, it was only the shaft that was bent, and the body and internals were perfectly serviceable. Anyways, another coilover was purchased, which left some parts left over for me to stick together for him.

I think I explained about the wheels in the previous post of this build, but essentially I was drunk on eBay (is there any other kind of eBay purchase?) and ended up buying some Volk Racing wheels. My intention was to refurbish and sell on. Numerous problems got in the way of that plan, including one of them being bent (the wheel, not the plan). Other reasons were the fasteners were too corroded for me to want to use again (the bolts) and there are 36 per wheel so replacements end up being pretty costly. They were also were not the stud pattern that was advertised, which meant that the potential to sell them on was greatly reduced. So I did what any self-respecting car person does and locked them in a cupboard and pretended I didnít blow a huge chunk of money on four paperweights, all because I canít take my drink.

Fast forward a few years and they are starting to get under foot. I still wasnít sure how I was going to get my money back on these things, until I saw a table made from an alloy wheel on TV. The thing was pretty garbage ( a piece of glass on a wheel) but the thought was planted and I figured if I was careful, I could put one together and sell it on, thus recouping my costs and MAYBE break even.

So far Iíve probably invested about $500 each into the two tables Iíve made and earned a grand total of $0. SoÖyeah, that plan went well. They are pretty though arenít they?
Questionable business practices aside, I had fun, and they turned out not-hideous. And, after all, can you put a price on fun? (yes, yes you can, $500 each and about 25 hours hard work).

Anyways, onto the wheel that I made for my brother. This is what I started with:

And this is what I ended up with:

So the glass was, yet again, custom cut to my drawings (on a frankie and bennies napkin, if thatís of any interest).

The coilover is a BC Racing unit, with all the oil drained and internals removed.

The wheel is a Volk Racing GRN (sort of like a CV-pro but not) in 15 x 6.5, 4x114.3, et25.

The Strut brace is from the Supra, but didnít fit anymore due to other modifications on the car.

The brake disc is from a Kawasaki ZX10R

The Bolts holding the strut brake in place are MIL spec, 12 point, cadmium plated with rolled threads.

The rest of the bolts are A2-80 stainless cap head screws.

The base is powder coated and the wheel lip was stripped and polished by moi.

The spiked nuts holding the glass in place are Downstar Spikes on A2-80 stainless threaded bar.

I thought it came out rather smashing, even if it was the very definition of "throwing good money after bad"


skip
Spoon me please



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4812 posts [100%]
Rainy WA
12-10-2008
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Wow.. This thread is delivering

Love how the custom table turned out. Very nice work sir. In for more


Milano red dc4 build - 2017 comeback

Spoon // Desmond // Recaro // ASC Metal Fab // KoyoRad // Innovative // ICB

Super Street Rookie of the Year - 2012

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jap-society
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2326 posts [100%]
belgium
10-17-2009
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That's amazing man


K-EG project car and daily EG4

Downstar | Checkerd Sports | Hybrid Racing | J's Racing | Spoon Sports | Mugen | C-west | Chargespeed | ...

IG; japsociety

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