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 '91 NSX - My buildFirst  < 2 3 4 5 >  Last
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hkz286
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31 posts [100%]
12-18-2016
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thanks chaps means a lot

Okay, just to take care of a few common faults before they become a problem.

First off, there is a large relay that control various starting systems for the car (ignition, fuel pump prime etc) and over the years the solder tends to crack and you start to get all sorts of starting problems (intermittently).

So first was to buy a new one, however I thought I would re-solder all the joints in the old one to keep as a spare in case of emergencies.

Itis crazy this was only designed in 1991, seems so old in comparison to what would be designed/made now:


re-soldered all the joints:


Next on the list was the climate control system. As with most of the electronics, after 20 years or so the capacitors start to leak and damage the PCB by eroding solder tracks and other components. Now, the one that came in my car must have been replaced at some point, as this was a new version. However, even the youngest of the NSX is 11 years old now, so it would be prudent to put new capacitors on as a preventative maintenance measure:

Butt load of new capacitors:

All fitted:


Some PCB laquer:

...and all tested and working:

The next little job. The aerial mast never raised to full height as the teeth were slipping. Honda used to make a replacement mast, however its now been discontinued. As luck would have it, a NOS item appeared on eBay right near my house. No need to buy a very expensive new unit, whoop!


Was so much of a pain to removed, you can see how its all been bent trying to get it out.


old and busted vs. new and hotness (yeah that's right, I referred to an aerial as hot!)


and all installed and working:


Another common issue is a dirty ignition switch. After thousands of start up procedures you tend to get a build up of carbon and grime on the switch resulting in an intermittent starting issue. I decided to get mine out and give it a clean (ooh err) before it started becoming a problem.


all cleaned up and re-greased, ready to go back together:



hkz286
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12-18-2016
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More on the common faults side of things I'm afraid so not particularly exciting.

First up is a small seal that goes into the timing belt tensioner, sounds ridiculous but the nsx timing belt is one of the best seal timing belts I've ever come across.

These are always missing so it was one of the first things I checked when I got a second with the car. It was still there but really old and cracked, so a new one was bought:


Another thing is the coil packs. Specifically the rear bank gets a lot of water into them, and if the seals aren't fitted and functional (you would be surprised how many are fitted incorrectly rendering them useless). So as the spark plugs needed changing they got an inspection.

don't look too bad but I replaced them as a matter of course. For anyone interested I used NGK iridium plugs as they are simply the best. I always use them in any vehicle I have.

all the bolts don't have a spot of corrosion on them, its like this car has never seen the rain before (and will never see the rain whilst I own it)

no rust, yeayyy

front bank got some silicone grease to prevent corrosion in future:

same with the rear bank:


The seal fitted correctly and with a good coat of silicone grease applied. It will be replaced next time its removed as its getting on a bit.

for some reason a bolt was missing for the coil pack cover so was replaced:


next up was the fuel filter, it was the original one so was time to replace:

again a MAHLE replacement was used as the quality is really up there with the best.

bleugh, old fuel out the filter:

new copper washers:


tiny little one for the pressure take off / diagnostic port:


Filter bracket with a fresh coat of paint and rubbers replaced:


...and fitted. You can see the banjo bolt adapter for the fuel pressure sensor and the custom loom I made for it with Techflex overbraid:



artofmotiongarage
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12-10-2010
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You really know these things man! I really enjoy learning small things here and there about the NSX! I will probably never own one but who cares! KNOWLEDGE IS POWER!
Instagram: artofmotiongarage
Website: artofmotiongarage.com
Build: 2001 Acura Integra LS Turbo
Closure to my old EK: The Last Hoorah


hkz286
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12-18-2016
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Quote, originally posted by artofmotiongarage »
You really know these things man! I really enjoy learning small things here and there about the NSX! I will probably never own one but who cares! KNOWLEDGE IS POWER!

cheers bud


so next up in the common fault area is the battery cables.

People tend to go nuts when tightening these up and because the posts are usually very soft, they end up getting crushed. This means that your cables are no longer tight, and if you end up hitting a bump etc they end up falling off, cutting all power and causing general embarrassment all round

so I thought I would go ahead and replace them. Looking at them however I figured I could do better for the same price as a new one from Honda!

old and busted, earth side:

power side:

you can see what I was talking about in this picture:

the clamp is completely closed (cant go any tighter) yet was really loose on the battery.

gross battery bracket:

slightly minging spare tyre holder:

corroded battery hold down ties:

battery posts seem to be okay, if a bit dirty:


bio-hazard battery case:

started off giving the battery a good clean:


"victory force super premium"


gave the tray a good wash:


gave the spare tyre holder a good clean


got all the corrosion of the battery bracket and the ties:

weapons of choice:

good coating all road:

then onto the cable. The raw materials are Rockford Fosgate 0 gauge cable and battery terminals:

one met t'other, crimping this without a hydraulic crimper was not fun!:

and again:

after some Raychem heat shrink:

before and after:

put some new terminal boots on:

had some other parts so replaced the engine block earth, this is mid construction pictured with the battery earth for scale:

..and fitted. This was finished off with gold plated terminals and Techflex expanding sleeve to cover the blue insulation:


...and everything back together, you can see the grey por15 battery clamp in this picture and the gold battery terminals. Excuse the other wires, that is for my CTEK charger to plug into



hkz286
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12-18-2016
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More electronic stuff I'm afraid.

This is more to do with the gauge cluster. When I first bought the car there was a warning light on the dash. This is to tell you one of the rear lights was broken. This was a little infuriating as this wasn't the case. At first I thought it was how the rear fog light was wired up (jdm cars don't have one and we need one to pass the yearly safety check). So I started there:

LED bulb fog light replaced one of the reverse lights (with a take off from the stock loom):

de-pinned the terminal, removed the take off and used heat shrink for the join:

all back together with a standard reverse light bulb:


But nooooooo. That would be too easy, the light was still on. That's the sucker I'm talking about, circled in green!

So back to the drawing board. Turns out it works of a switched earth system when one of the bulbs fail. So consulting the manual and grounding out the appropriate pin should make the lamp switch off, even if all your bulbs have blown.

Annnnnnd it was still shining, like a beacon of my own incompetence.....mocking me......

So after a brief mental break down, I concluded that the gauge cluster was at fault. With any other car, you would just nip down to the local scrap yard. Pay a few dollars for a new one, adjust your mileage and bobs your mothers brother. Not so in this case, as most people ask north of $800 for a second hand unit with no promise that it wont end up happening again.

After looking around and doing various tests I figured it was the capacitors that were leaking over the circuit and chip that controls the "brake light malfunction" light. Now, not usually one to be scared easily (this isn't true, everything scares me) but I came across a few people that have experienced major failures of the gauge cluster due to leaking capacitors. By which I mean they set on fire...

You have to keep in mind that over 18000 nsx cars were made and I can only find a handful of times this has actually occurred but it still makes you a bit wary.

So out came the capacitor collection again:

and out came the gauge cluster:

started disassembling it :


And decided whilst everything is out, to clean and re-grease the mileage indicators:

ewwwww.

after:

same treatment to the trip meter:


gave the back plastic a good wash:


one by one, replaced all the capacitors:


only one was actually leaking, which was closest to the circuit that controls my warning light:


Cleaned up the tracks and any residual acid (you can see the exposed copper).

I was hoping that was the end of it. You can see the chip that controls the circuit in the above photo (the rectangle black piece). This isn't a proprietary piece of kit, so you cant pick one up from any online electrical suppliers. I was just hoping it wasn't damaged and that the clean up and capacitor replacement would suffice.

NOPE!

put it all back together and whilst everything functioned as it should, the warning light was still on.

That god damned chip was damaged by the acid out of the capacitor. Now there is only one place in the entire globe I know off that has any. A company called T3TEC in japan who is an NSX specialist. They offer this kind of refurbishment. Problem is that nobody there speaks English. I don't speak Japanese, and even if I did, Japanese companies are reluctant to deal with people outside the country (in case of faults etc).

So whilst I was crying into my laptop and wondering what the hell I was going to do about this light I suddenly came across a Yahoo auctions in Japan (as one does). Guess what they were selling?

that's right, the very chip I needed. The only one on the entire auction site. Weirdly good luck :S

It was around $60 (these things usually are pennies from a supplier) but beggars cant be choosy. I bought it, shipped it, got stung for import fees and finally it arrived.

After all the above, it ended up costing around $110, for a god damned electronic chip the size of a postage stamp.

So I got to work taking it all apart again,

removed the old one:

new one in place:


Just in case this wasn't an expensive enough venture in itself, I decided to buy myself a mines 300km/h speedo. These things are insane money! like $1500 brand new. So when one came up for sale second hand I couldn't resist. Even though it meant re-mortgaging the house for it :S

So I put it all back together, held my breath, crossed my fingers and boom! No more light. (the ones you can see are the engine hatch and drivers door, as I was also doing some engine work at the same time)

I honestly did a dance around my house whilst simultaneously composing a song about brake warning lights and how they can suck it. What's even weirder is the Mrs didn't even bat an eyelid. Literally, didn't even look up from her phone, evidentally used to not understanding most of what I do, she decided to not even ask :s not sure this is a good or bad thing...

So after an insane amount of money, dis-assembling and assembling my gauge cluster more times than I can count, so many hours of soldering, slight lead poisoning and a disillusioned girlfriend, a little light on my dash is no longer on.

When you say it like that it almost seems silly...


artofmotiongarage
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571 posts [100%]
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12-10-2010
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You and your leaking capacitors! HAHA! I am happy you fixed the cluster! I also like how you use techflex on any thing electrical. Nice subtle touches are my style too!
Instagram: artofmotiongarage
Website: artofmotiongarage.com
Build: 2001 Acura Integra LS Turbo
Closure to my old EK: The Last Hoorah


hkz286
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12-18-2016
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Quote, originally posted by artofmotiongarage »
You and your leaking capacitors! HAHA! I am happy you fixed the cluster! I also like how you use techflex on any thing electrical. Nice subtle touches are my style too!

yeah honestly I'm sick of the sight of the things now. Its a nice cheap fix if they haven't damaged anything. I'm telling you the nsx is the perfect mix of old and lots of electronics, as other Hondas must be the same but haven't read about the same electronic issues. Maybe the parts are just cheaper to be replaced so nobody bothers to try and fix them. Anything with NSX in the title and you get gouged!


Micha
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Mars
1-30-2015
 « Re: (hkz286)« » Reply  Edit


Wow. Great amount of work. But that's what it's all about. The details

I had to do the same cluster job with changing capacitors on my old W140 Benz. But you took it to another level


Makes me want to clean everything too


BTW:
This thread shows it again: forums>social media

so nice to see all the documented stuff in this form


IG: @michaaah
subros.de


artofmotiongarage
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571 posts [100%]
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12-10-2010
 « Re: (Micha)« » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by Micha »

BTW:
This thread shows it again: forums>social media

so nice to see all the documented stuff in this form


ABSOLUTELY AGREE WITH THAT COMMENT! I have been so excited to see NWP move like this again!


Instagram: artofmotiongarage
Website: artofmotiongarage.com
Build: 2001 Acura Integra LS Turbo
Closure to my old EK: The Last Hoorah


hkz286
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12-18-2016
 « Re: (Micha)« » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by Micha »
Wow. Great amount of work. But that's what it's all about. The details

I had to do the same cluster job with changing capacitors on my old W140 Benz. But you took it to another level

Makes me want to clean everything too

BTW:
This thread shows it again: forums>social media

so nice to see all the documented stuff in this form

yeah its kind of an addiction, once you start you just find more stuff to clean :S

I definitely agree with the preference for forums over social media.

Just thought I would share a recent shot of the car at a cars and coffee.

…and a few more with the recent addition of my AsphaltKnights sticker:

tacky?...yes. Ricer?.....perhaps, but I love it! So, ner!

More boring work I'm afraid chaps.

Due to the lack of a cabin filter (completely open to elements) the heater and air con system tends to get covered in crap which sits there for years on end leading to smelly air con and heater air blowing into the cabin.

So off came the windscreen cowel to get access to the various bits:

These clips always brake so will be replaced:

bleugh:

…and out with the heater box:

ewwww:

After a good wash with anti-bacterial spray:



Gave this area a good wash as well, you can see the exposed air inlet on the right of this picture (big square hole):


Next onto the aircon evaporator:

Before:

During:

And after:

A lot of the tabs on the windscreen cowel had been damaged from over tightening the screws and some of the anti-rattle / isolation foam was damaged:

:

So I used some fibreglass to repair and re-inforce them all and also replaced the foam (blue stuff):

…and some sanding, shaping, painting and drilling (sorry for the awful picture but my hands were a mess):


New clips to put everything back together:

I also added a new filter onto the inlet. You can buy proper air filters for this, but because the design of the system originally didn't include one, I wasn't sure how much extra load it was going to place onto the fans etc. This is really just open cell foam but it will stop the big debris and dirt getting into the system.

…and everything back together with new clips:


I never noticed before but now the air coming out of the air-con and heater has zero odour. It wasn't bad before, just the standard air-con smell that you usually get, but now it’s just like having a window open. Well worth the time and effort (I think :S)


hkz286
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12-18-2016
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Next on the list of stuff to fix from when previous people worked on the car, was the knee bolster.

This is the piece that sits under the steering wheel that covers the ignition barrel etc.

Pictured here (this was after the vinyl was removed, but just to give you an idea of what piece im dealing with)

It was knackered. The leather was coming off, the screw tabs were broken etc it was a mess.

Considering it’s a small bit of plastic with a bit of vinyl glued to it I thought I would try my luck with Honda. How expensive can it be, considering its not even real leather?

Turns out very. To the sum of $400. As can be seen from previous posts, I’m not averse to spending obscene amounts of money on what seem to be worthless items, but even I have my limits.

I figure I would see how bad it was, try and fix it, and if it doesn’t work out, go to Honda and bend over and think of England.

So off came the vinyl:

You can see here the missing screw tabs to the secure the piece to the car:

One of the only tabs still intact:

Here I am making a mould to build a new tab from epoxy resin:

New tab:

New bottom tabs made from some aluminium flat bar and the riveted into place:

Some fresh vinyl and new underlay:

You will have to forgive the dents caused by the clamps, they have relaxed now

and fitted:

Not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, but its secure, the vinyl is fresh and soft and it doesn’t rattle. It will tied me over until I either find a nice second hand one or lose my mind enough to get a new one from Honda.


hkz286
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12-18-2016
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Another little annoyance was that the badge on the arm rest was looking a little tired (1st world problems eh? )

Just the clear coat was peeling and the plastic was greying a little.

So off it came and sanding it back:

Hit it with some satin black

Let it dry and then flat it back with some fine wet and dry on a very flat surface:

And good as new (well not really, this was mid progress, I went up a few grade of sandpaper to give it a proper shine and remove all the paint)


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